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Steps for refinishing wood cedar runabout.

We are pleased to share our knowledge of steps needed to bring your cedar strip runabout back to new condition.
The following is a list of easily - followed steps in repairing and refinishing a wood strip runabout. Should you need assistance in any of these steps, please don’t hesitate to call us, we’ll help you along the way to get the job done.

  1. We recommend that you first read the "Wooden Boat Restoration and Repair Manual" by Gougeon brothers (see Books section of catalog). You can purchase a copy from us as well as all of the materials you will need for your project.
  2. Remove outside keel from transom to bow stem (either bolted or screwed into inner keel) and then remove the outer stem (screwed into inner stem).
  3. Should you find any rotten parts such as a transom, transom knee, keels, decks or other structural pieces, we can either supply you with the wood, replicate the pieces for ready installation or do the work for you.
  4. Clean inside of hull - wet first, use one or two liters of PVR Paint and Varnish Remover (see Cleaners section of catalog), scrub with nylon brush and wash out. You may want to do two applications. To bring wood back to near original colour, we recommend that you also use Teak Brightener and Cleaner (see Cleaners section of catalog) on the inside of hull. For this application, you wash out the inside again and apply one liter of Teak Cleaner scrubbing with a nylon bristle brush, evenly on bottom and sides, wash out and while still wet pour small quantities of Teak Brightener, wash out let dry and then thoroughly sand. (3 of each brightener and cleaner).
  5. At this point we would ask you to consider doing one additional step on your interior hull which would completely seal and waterproof the wood and build up a strong wear resistant surface, requiring fewer varnish coats and years of maintenance-free enjoyment. Following the cleaning instructions, listed above, you would apply the S1 Sealer Kit (ask about quantity required). This is simply applied by brush with one to two coats required).
  6. Cleaning exterior hull prior to fibreglassing by thoroughly sanding hull, filling cracks and screw or nail holes with West 406 filler (see Fillers section of catalog), sand again and clean with a good safe solvent.
  7. Lay fibreglass cloth (you will need two pieces-6 oz. X 60” x length of boat plus two feet -see Glassing section of catalog) on each side of hull, overlapping at keel. Do not use staples or tape to hold cloth. Apply three coats of West System Epoxy Resin (see Glues and Epoxies section of catalog)and sanding between coats. When cured, sand with wet paper or a heavy grit scotch-bright pad. Sand with wet fine sanding paper then wash off with water and look for a smooth flow of water over the hull without beading. This will tell you that there’s no waxy surface left on hull.
  8. Now you ready to reapply the outside keel and stem. Pre-drill and then apply generously Sikaflex 240 (see Bedding and caulking section of catalog) and screw back. You may also need to replace your fasteners and we stock a wide variety of bronze and brass fasteners that are made for the job.
  9. Once you have completed the above, you are now ready to varnish or paint using two to four qts of either Epifanes Clear Spar Varnish (N2) for the inside hull, decks, trim and above splash rails and Epifanes Yacht Enamel (N6) (see Paints and Varnishes section of catalog) for the bottom, should you not want to varnish the entire hull.
  10. For fittings you may be missing, we stock anything you may require in either bronze or chrome-plate, including windshield brackets, stem bands, navigational lights and much more (see Fasteners and Fittings section of catalog). We also carry original hull decals for many runabouts (see Original Decals section of catalog).


For more information, please contact TenderCraft Boats at, or call us at 1-800-588-4682


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